Guide
Choosing the right stabilizer
Stabilizer holds the fabric still while thousands of stitches go in. The right one stops puckering, gaps and outlines that don't line up.
Updated
By fabric
| Fabric | Stabilizer | Needle | Extras |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quilting cotton, twill, canvas | Tear-away | 75/11 | |
| T-shirts and knits | Cut-away (no-show mesh for light colours) | 75/11 ballpoint | Don't stretch while hooping |
| Sweatshirts and hoodies | Cut-away | 75/11 ballpoint | |
| Towels and fleece | Tear-away or cut-away | 75/11 or 90/14 | Water-soluble topper |
| Denim and canvas bags | Tear-away or cut-away | 90/14 | |
| Caps | Cap backing (tear-away) | 75/11 or 80/12 | Fewer colours sew better |
| Free-standing lace | Heavy wash-away | 75/11 | Lace designs need special digitizing |
Rules of thumb
- Stretchy fabric gets cut-away. It stays in and supports the stitches for life.
- Dense designs (photos, big fills) need firmer stabilizer, or two layers.
- Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together, drum-tight but not stretched.
- Toppers stop stitches sinking into pile, and wash away afterwards.
Questions
Why does my embroidery pucker?
Usually too light a stabilizer, fabric stretched in the hoop, or a very dense design. Use cut-away, hoop without stretching, and lower the density in the studio if needed.